Bathroom Tile

Most of the tile in our upstairs full bath (someday guest bath) has been installed. Our contractor is doing it all himself as he knows we’re a bit particular. We’ve chosen pretty classic tiles that look like they could be original to our 1927 house... in fact, the new floor tile is almost identical to the third damaged layered that was removed. The wall tile is Daltile Semi-Gloss 3x6 in Arctic White (aka subway tile) and the floor tile is 1" Carrara Marble Hexagon.



Inspiration photos for the bathroom are here. Since the tile choices are classic, we wanted a somewhat modern application of the wall tile so we chose to tile from floor to ceiling on two walls of the room. The other two walls will be painted a soft grey to pick up some of the grain in the floor tile.

For a few reasons, we also (kind of last minute) decided to install an electric radiant heat floor mat under the hex tile:
•the hydronic radiant heat in the rest of the house won’t be installed until phase 2
•under-subfloor heating doesn’t conduct as well through the many layers of bathroom flooring
•we can keep the bathroom floor a lot warmer without creating a sauna in the rest of the house

Here’s the cost breakdown:
•133 square feet Daltile Semi-Gloss 3x6 in Arctic White $2.15/sf (thanks Stella!!!) $316.77
•18 pieces Daltile Semi-Gloss 3x6 Bullnose Trim in Arctic White $1.99 ea. for the shower niche $41.43
•38 square feet 1" Carrara Marble Hexagon in 12" sheets $23/sf (talked down from $29/sf) $957.04
•NuHeat 72"x42" Floor Heating Mat $246.75
•NuHeat SOLO Programmable Thermostat $157.50

I picked up all of the tile from the manufacturers so we wouldn’t have to pay the shipping that most tile showrooms make you pay. You can find less expensive marble hex tile online but it is actually cheaper quality (we ordered samples) and the shipping costs add up quickly.

Drywall

Just another quick update: progress is slow but steady. The sheetrock has all been put in and passed inspection, and they've started to put the layers of mud on the walls. The mud has to dry between coats and the air is really damp which slows this down, so this is a lengthy process (several days). It's exciting to see the walls really become solid, and we can definitely see a light at the end of the tunnel from here. There's been a lot of work done in the bathroom as well, but more on that in the next post.

Pictured: Above, the mudded sheetrock in the office. Below, the media closet, complete with the mass of wires we will eventually be hooking up to the various components therein.

Sheetrock

Just a quick note on progress - sheetrock started going up last week! The bedrooms are mostly covered, and most of the remainder plus the mud coats will start this week. We learned recently from our friends Fred and Stella that there are different levels of drywall. We're doing Level 4 (out of 5), which isn't "perfectly smooth" but is a fairly standard smoothness and is good for paint with really light texture. We aren't putting texture in the paint, per se, but the colors will be matte and there will be a rollered layer for a slightly more natural look (more on our paint choices later). Plus, according to our contractor, Level 4 is much easier to blend with any touch-up work.

Pictured: above, some sheetrock in the office. Below, the moisture-proof sheetrock encapsulating what will someday be a half-bathroom off the hallway but which will remain unfinished (and hidden) for this first phase.

Shear Walls

Just a quick update and a snapshot of some of the recent structural work. At left is the scaffolding for the concrete footings on the lower level, which have been dug out and fitted with rebar, have passed inspection, and are waiting to be filled with concrete. These will form the base of our new exterior wall in the rear; there are others just like them that frame the garage and future closets on the lower level.

At right is the upper level, rear of the house, where the walls have been reinforced with thick plywood to enhance shear strength. It amazed me that supposedly just a couple sheets of plywood can make a huge difference to structural integrity.

Oh, to live in a seismic zone. We did have a conversation with our neighbor, which provided us with some comfort. Apparently during the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake, her mother was in her home directly across the street from us, and "didn't feel a thing." That's impressive considering that quake toppled I-880 and a chunk of the Bay Bridge. So we're happy our house is on bedrock.

Our contractor is now refocusing on the upper level at this point - in theory, sheetrock starts going up this week.

Entry Inspiration

Now that most of the drama behind the walls of the house is coming to a close, we’re starting to plan and purchase paint and finishes for each room. I’m putting together inspiration boards consisting of some of our favorite swipes from our decor bible that I’ve been working on for years. First, the downstairs entry to the place:


We’re waiting until we complete the downstairs renovation (and expand the entryway a bit) to redo the flooring. It will most likely be either hardwood to match the upstairs or a dark slate. If we choose wood, we might try to extend the boards up the wall directly across from the front door.

The stairs will someday be hardwood but we’ve decided to hold off because the installation is crazy expensive. (Photo at left: stairs as they look today) So, the risers are being replaced, the existing fir stairs will be sanded and Greg and I will paint them after we move in. There are two directions we’re thinking about... painting the borders white, leaving a wood “runner”; or painting them in a subdued rainbow palette.